Soil moisture sensors: problems & solutions

Soil moisture sensors are popular among hobbyists who e.g. want to monitor or automatically irrigate their plants.

There are a number of cheap sensors available in the various ‘Chinese webshops’ but those come with a caveat. I will discuss a few and come with ‘solutions’ to some of the biggest problems.

The above sensor is very popular, but in short: it is shit. It is a resistive soil moisture sensor and those come with a big problem: electrolysis. The fact that there is a constant current flowing through the sensor when it is in contact with wet soil will lead to electrolytic breakdown of the very thin layer on the sensor’s PCB, or in other words: after a relatively short period the metal will no longer be on your sensor, but in your soil.

Another issue with this module is that people use the entire module even when that is not necessary. Let me explain with help of a picture:

Soil moisture sensor module

The image shows the circuit used in the module. It is basically a comparator that when the soil moisture (and thus the resistance) reaches a value that is set with the variable resistor, the output of the comparator (DO) toggles. So far so good. The analog output (AO) on the other hand is directly connected to the sensor. That means that if you only use the Analog Output, you do not need the module at all, just connecting the sensor to an analog input and use an internal or external pullup will suffice.
I suggest you do not use this sensor at all.

Soil moisture sensor

The above sensor is more of the same. It is also a resistive sensor and thus has the same problems as the one above. It does not have a digital output, just an analog. Also, because of the exposed electronics on it, it is not really suitable for outside use. I suggest you do not buy this one.

Soil sensor (supposedly protected)

The above sensor supposedly is made from a non-electrolytic sensitive material. It is suffested it is made of carbon. My experience with it is not long enough to say if that is true, but it seems to be fake in that aspect. However, it is definitely useable in combination with some solutions i will suggest later.

Capacitive soilsensor

The above sensor is a capacitive sensor. That means it does not measure the resistance of the soil but the capacitance of the soil. That means that there is no need to have any bare metal sticking in the soil and therefore electrolysis is not a problem. It has some other issues though: The coating that is used to cover the plates of the ‘capacitor’ sadly does not cover the sides of the PCB. Therefore moisture will eventually leak in and basically turn the capacitor into a resistor that will rot away. Also because of the exposed electronics at the top it is not really suitable to use outside. If you want to use this sensor it would be a good idea to dip or spray it completely into/with PlastiDipR.

Sadly there are some issues with this sensor:

  1. Some sensors do not use a TLC555 but an NE555. The latter is not working properly with 3v3 which means you have to remove the voltage regulator.
  2. The 1Mohm resistor (called R4 on the pcb) is not connected to ground on some boards, leading to very slow readings. As this seems to be a problem in the boards design it is easiest solved by soldering a 1Mohm resistor over the Aout and Ground pins.

Realise that capacitive sensors measure other values than resistive soil sensors. A capacitive sensor measures true water content of the soil whereas a resistive sensor in fact measures ion/salt content in the soil, so adding say fertilizer to your soil will change the reading of your resistive sensor but not your capacitive sensor. As such capacitive sensors are better than resistive sensors, but it can be a pain to make sure they are completely watertight. In my experience the often used nailpolish will dissolve over time as does laquer. The before mentioned PlastiDipis a good solution, but adds to the cost of the sensor. The resistive sensor is just much easier.

So what can we do to protect the resistive sensor against electrolysis?
You will read various ‘solutions’ for this:
“You have to feed it with AC”
Yeah, right.Let alone that most of the circuits to do that do not provide AC but just a DC Sinewave or some other form of pulsed DC which does not help at all
“You have to reverse the voltage”
Okay….. apart from the fact that this requires an extra pin, it also takes a lot of time sensitive programming.

There are better solutions:
Use decent galvanized bolts/nails of say 6mm thick and don’t give a fuck. After the growing season take them out, give them a scrub and use again. They will last pretty long.

Only apply a voltage and thus a current to your sensor when you need it.
You really do not need to know the moisture content of your soil every second of the day. Suppose you measure only 4-6 times a day and every measurement takes say 1 mSec. Then you only need to apply a voltage for 4-6mSec a day. That is a lot less electrolysis.
You can do this by feeding the voltage divider that makes up your sensor and pull up resistor simply from an extra pin of your microcontroller and set up a timer to drive that pin HIGH, read the value and drive the pin LOW once every 4-6 hrs. If you do not cherish the idea to use an I/O pin to feed a sensor, the circuits below will do the same. Obviously one should not set an internal pull up resistor when using this option.

soilmoisture sensor,High side switching with PNP transistor
Soilmoisture sensor,Low side switching with FET

There are purists that say you would still need to reverse the voltage for those 4-6 msecs as well, but come on.

The easiest though is to do away with metal alltogether and to use graphite rods. These are current conducting and not subjected to electrolysis or regular corrosis.
It is of course not possible to solder wires to graphite but wires can easily be attached with some heat shrink. The rods as shown here have a combined resistance of approx 10k.

A simple sensor with graphite rods

I2C address conflicts

I2C is a handy protocol to control plenty of chips/sensors/actuators with only 2 pins. With 128 adresses available you would think you are not going to run into an address conflict, meaning you want to use 2 modules that have the same I2C address, but you’d be surprised. Many I2C modules can in fact be set for another address, usually through some address jumpers, but that is not always possible. Even when the chip itself has a possibility to select more than one I2C address, the module does not always implement that (Various PCF8591 modules for instance)
The Adafruit I2C address list shows the I2C addresses of many modules.

The Arduino does have one hardware I2C port, except for the Arduino Due, that has 2.

So what can we do to use 2 or more I2C modules that share 0ne address?
The only solution is to create multiple I2C busses.
This can be done in 2 ways:

Software
The Wire Library that comes with the Arduino IDE only allows you to use the pins on the Arduino that are meant for I2C:

Board I2C / TWI pins
Uno, Ethernet A4 (SDA), A5 (SCL)
Mega2560 20 (SDA), 21 (SCL)
Leonardo 2 (SDA), 3 (SCL)
Due 20 (SDA), 21 (SCL), SDA1, SCL1

The Wire library doesn’t cater for multiple I2C busses, you can only call one instance of it.

So you will need a library that does allow multiple I2C objects. The following libraries do that.

SoftI2CMaster is a lean I2C implementation.

SoftWire allows any pins of the Arduino to be used. It needs another library called AsyncDelay.

Software_I2C on GitHub might be akin to this one from Seeedstudio, but I did not make a full comparison.
Some more multiple bus Software I2C libraries can be found here.

Using those software libraries is a quick and easy way to set up multiple I2C busses, but there is one major drawback. That is the fact that many existing libraries for I2C peripherals make direct calls to the “Wire” library. These would need some modification to make them work with another I2C library.

Hardware.
Instead of a software solution, it is also possible to use an I2C port expander. The TCA9548A is such an expander. It connects to the existing I2C port and then can be made to send commands to 1 of 8 different I2C ports.

The TCA9548A has its own I2C address of 0x70, which can be changed using three pins. This allows you to have up to eight of these modules in your design, adding a total of 64 extra I2C buses that of course each can address some 128 device

The TCA9548A operates on a range of 3 to 5.5 volts, making it suitable for say ‘old’ Arduino 5 Volt logic as well as the new 3V3 logic.

Its use is quite simple: One only needs to write the required bus nr (0-7) to the Chips address (0x70 by default).
It is easiest do to this in a routine:

void TCA9548A(uint8_t bus)
{
  Wire.beginTransmission(0x70);  // default TCA9548A address
  Wire.write(1 << bus);          // select bus
  Wire.endTransmission();
}

a program thus could look as follows:

void setup()
{
TCA9548A(0);
setup your device connected to bus 0
TCA9548A(1);
setup your device connected to bus 1
}
void loop()
{
TCA9548A(0);
write to (or read from) device connected to bus 0
TCA9548A(1);
write to (or read from) device connected to bus 1
}
void TCA9548A(uint8_t bus)
{
 Wire.beginTransmission(0x70);
 Wire.write(1 << bus);
 Wire.endTransmission();
}

As said, the default address of the TCA9548A is 0x70, but can be changed over the range 0x70-0x77. Make sure that you have no other chip on the chosen address as commands to that chip could be seen as commands to the I2C expander.
Chips in that range are:

  • HT16K33 LED Matrix Driver (0x70 – 0x77)
  • PCT2075 Temperature Sensor (0x28-0x2E, 0x48-0x4F, 0x70-0x77)

So make sure you choose another address for them than the addresss you put the Expander (0x70-0x77) on.

 

 

Modifying the Cam32 Webserver HTML file

The standard webserver for the CAM32 module comes with a hoist of options.
If you want to modify that webserver e.g. add a button for the flash or whatever, you need to alter the webserver’s  HTML page.
That however is not as straightforward as it may seem.
Where is that HTML page??

Well, if you look in the ArduinoIDE after loading the example file, there is one file, called ‘camera_index’  and when you open it up,you will see an array called “index_html_gz”. That is the index file…but it is encoded.
So before one can work on it, it needs to be decoded back to html code.
That is not impossible, as there is a site that can do that for us. It is Cyberchef.

If you follow the above link, Cyberchef will open with the proper decode ‘Recipe’ set. You only need to paste in your code (from the array).
In the output window you will see the decoded html file that can be saved.
For efficacy I already did that for you and you can find the decoded html file here.

After you made the desired changes, you need to encode the html page again and that can be done by cyberchef as well. When you click this link, it should give you the proper settings. Only need to use your HTML as input. Then copy the output without the first comma, and use that to replace the content of the “index_html_gz”  array in your camera_index file.

Now I was going to add a flashbutton, but apparently that has been done already. You will also find a pretty decent one right here.
You may also find a randomnerds article about various ESP32cam settings useful.

The Pinout of the ESP32Cam is as follows:
esp32camPins

These pins are internally connected to the Micro SD card reader:

  • GPIO 14: CLK
  • GPIO 15: CMD
  • GPIO 2: Data 0
  • GPIO 4: Data 1 (also connected to the on-board LED)
  • GPIO 12: Data 2
  • GPIO 13: Data 3

Very Deep Sleep and energy saving on ESP8266 – Part 5: ESP-NOW and WiFi

In the previous 4 articles on deepsleep and energy saving, I mainly focussed on establishing a WiFi connection to send data.

Part 1 General – DeepSleep
Part 2 Http requests – DeepSleep
Part 3 MQTT publish – DeepSleep
Part 4 MQTT subscribe – DeepSleep

There are other ways to send data though that cost less time and therefore less energy than establishing a WiFi connection. One of those ways is to use ESP-NOW. ESP-NOW is a kind of connectionless Wi-Fi communication protocol that is defined by Espressif. In ESP-NOW, application data is encapsulated in a vendor-specific action frame and then transmitted from one Wi-Fi device to another without connection.
The big gain in using ESP-NOW is that the ESP8266 (or ESP32 for that matter) does not need to make connection with a router, but it sends data immediately to another designated ESP, which makes the process much faster. That is also one of the drawbacks: you need an extra ESP8266 (or ESP32). That extra ESP can receive data from 20 other ESP’s.
Another drawback is that the receiving ESP is ‘isolated’. Sure you can add an LCD to read the data, but it would be handier if the received data would be available on a network, for Home Assistant or openHAB being able to do something with it, or to store it in a database.
ESP-NOW works fairly straightforward on the ESP32 and a very good “How To” can be found on randomnerdtutorials.

It is perfectly well possible though to also use it on an ESP8266 and that is what I will be doing here. I am certainly no pioneer in this. Anthony Elder in fact already published code using ESP-NOW to transfer BME280 data and go to sleep in between, and also “The guy with the Swiss accent’ did, as did some others, but usually based on Anthony’s code.
Anthony’s sketches though do not have the receiving ESP connect to a network as well, but it can be done, albeit in a bit unorthodox way. Wim3D on instructables however follows an interesting concept as well as he has the sending ESP8266 connect to MQTT if the ESP-NOW transfer goes faulty. Sample code can be found here too (pdf),

So what I will do here is:
1 use one ESP8266 to read a sensor like the BME280 and send the data via ESP-NOW, keeping the ESP in deepsleep in between.
2 use another ESP8266 to receive the incoming data and eventually send that via an http request or MQTT to the network

1 The Sender
There is plenty of information on the Web so there is no real need to reinvent the wheel. I used a sketch from Anthony Elder, that I adapted for my needs. It can be found here. Although this sketch does not have all the energy savings that can be made as shown in my parts 1-4, it is a good begin to test the ESP-NOW datatransfer.

We can see that the transfer only takes a tadd less than 300ms and part of that is not even the active connection. By removing the print statements it is possible to shave off another 40-50msec. So can we win some more energy savings here. Let’s see. It turns out that that the biggest time saver we can implement is to add WiFi.persistent( false ); right at the beginning of the Setup(). Once we do that we go from 300msec to 87msec.

That addition is now already in the sendfile I linked to earlier. When you decide to take out the Serial.print statements, do not remove the Serial.println(bme280.begin(), HEX); statement as that one initializs the BME280. You could ofcourse replace that by a simple bme280.begin(); call

2 The receiver-basic
As there is much info already available on the web, there is no need to re-invent the wheel. I adapted a sketch from Anthony Elder to serve my needs and it can be found here. It simply receives the ESPNOW messages and printes them to the serial monitor. Obviously that is still not what we want as we want it to function as either an HTTP or MQTT gateway, but for now it will do to test if we can make the ESPNOW data transfer.

2 The receiver-MQTT
Of course just printing data to the serial monitor is not going to be of much use, so I was looking for a way to make an ESP-NOW to MQTT Gateway. As it happens, ‘Swiss guy’ Andreas Spiess had already done work on that and provided a sketch that I only had to adapt slightly.
As the present ESP-NOW sdk does not support simultaneous use of ESP-NOW and a wifi connection, the WiFi connection to the broker is now started a new when an ESP-NOW message is received. After a WiFi channel is used, the ESP-NOW protocol can only start when the same WiFi channel is used. As this comes with some limitations I for now have solved it by testarting the sketch every time an MQTT message is published.  Possibly there is another way that I have not tried yet and that is to define the receiver both as AP and STA and use different channels for each and use the AP for the ESP-NOW  and the STA for internet connection. Rui Santos from randomnerdtutorials gives an example of this for the ESP32 although that is just to have the receiving ESP32 to serve a webpage as well. Whether it will work for the ESP8266 to be an MQTT or HTTP client I cannot confirm it yet.

That of course is far from ideal and makes the gateway a bit slow, but it should not be a problem with ESP-NOW messages coming in that have a sensible sleeping period in between. Whether this reset is still necessary with the new sdk I need to check (when I have time)

3 The receiver HTTP
If you prefer an HTTP connection to upload the data to an SQL server (or Thinkspeak), that of course is possible as well. This sketch sends MQTT as well as HTTP.

4 Miscellaneous
There are a couple of functions important/needed to set up the ESP-NOW sender.
Of course we begin with calling the necessary library espnow.h.
Then we set up a data structure that we will send.
We initialize the protocol with esp_now_init().
We define the role with esp_now_set_self_role(ESP_NOW_ROLE_CONTROLLER);
We define the peer (slave) that we will be sending to with esp_now_add_peer(remoteMac, ESP_NOW_ROLE_SLAVE, WIFI_CHANNEL, NULL, 0);
and then we register the callback with esp_now_register_send_cb([](uint8_t* mac, uint8_t sendStatus). The callback function returns whether the delivery was successful or not.
We finally send the data with esp_now_send(NULL, bs, sizeof(sensorData)); NULL means send to all peers (thats to say the ones we added)

The code for the ESP8266 starts with a bit of an awkward instruction:

extern "C" {
#include <espnow.h>
}

that is basically to instruct the compiler to expect C code rather than C++ code
Sendercode.
ReceiveESPNOW and send through MQTT/HTTP code.

stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c

There may be many reasons why you may get an stk500_getsync() error when uploading code to an arduino, but the 0x7c error is a bit rare.
There might be various reasons for it, but when I recently got it on a “new” arduino nano, fresh from China, I could see that the Blink program that it came with worked, so I knew  that the processor was working.
Ofcourse I tried another cable, eventhough a faulty cable usually gives another return code. Yes, it came with a CH340 chip, but that never caused a problem before.
So i tried:
Tools-Processor-Atmega328 (Old Bootloader)
That worked immediately

Very deep sleep – part 4, subscribing to MQTT messages

In a previous article, I presented a deepsleep program for the ESP8266 that would publish mqtt messages when it woke up from deepsleep.

In that article I wrote that receiving MQTT messages in a deepsleep-wake cycle is possible, but that it came with some issues of its own.  In the present article lets what we need to do to receive MQTT messsages while on a deepsleep wake cycle.

First however ask yourselves if it is really a good idea to incorporate receiving MQTT messages in a deepsleep project: It will cost time and whatever you plan to regulate via MQTT will be practically null and void when the ESP goes into deepsleep.
The only reason I can come up with is  using MQTT to instruct the ESP to not go to deepsleep yet, but do a firmware update first.

Anyway, here we go. There are two hurdles to overcome:

  1. When did broker send the MQTT message?
    If your program sleeps for 3 hrs and the broker sent a message 2 hrs earlier, we need to make sure it is still there when the ESP8266 wakes up. Therefore we need to retain or persist the messages coming from the broker. Remember that when you retain a message, the broker will keep offering it on every wake up.
  2. How long do we need to wait for the messages to come in and how many messages are expected?
    Normally it is the ‘client.loop‘ instruction in void loop(){} that will gather the incoming messages, but with deepsleep we never get to the void loop(). But if we put the client.loop instruction in the setup, then it will run only once, which will likely not be enough to receive and process any incoming MQTT messages. So we need to build our own ‘loop’ in the setup.
    That loop should last long enough to process incoming messages, but still as short as possible to save battery-life.The most efficient way is to set a flag holding up the deepsleep and clear that flag when a message is received. But that means if no message received, the ESP does not go to sleep, so that’s not really an option (it can work with retained messages). That means we have to do it differently. Will get to that later.

We will make a simple MQTT command to light the LED on a Wemos board. In the verydeepsleepMQTT.ino from the previous article, go to void reconnect, find:

client.publish("home/sleep/stat/connection", "OK");

and add right under that, the following line:

client.subscribe("home/sleep/cmd/led");

Then, at the end of the program, add the following routine

void callback(char* topic, byte* payload, unsigned int length) {

Serial.print("Message arrived in topic: ");
Serial.println(topic);

Serial.print("Message:");
for (int i = 0; i < length; i++) {
Serial.print((char)payload[i]);
}
digitalWrite(ledPin,LOW);
}

In the program find the line:

//client.setCallback(callback);

and uncomment that

In the declaration section of the program, add the instruction:

ledPin=3

find the section ‘//Go do stuff’ and add:

pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // initialize digital ledPin as an output.

then go to the setup() and find the line:

sendMQTTmessage();

and add right under that:

if (!client.connected()) {
reconnect();
}
for(int i=0;i<10; i++)
{
client.loop(); //Ensure we've sent & received everything
delay(100);
}

This adds 1 sec to our wake time. You could try with less, depending on speed of yr connection and the amount of messages you expect.

Now add an LED with 560 ohm-1k seriesresistor between 3.3V and the ‘ledPin’ and send the MQTT message “home/sleep/cmd/led” with payload “ON”. The next time the ESP8266 wakes up, the LED will light up for a short time and the serial monitor -if connected- will show the message that was received.

To be fair……. this program will react to any payload, whether it is ON or OFF or anything else, as  I do not check for that, but you can easily do that yourself. My goal was just to show how to receive MQTT messages.
Also, in the loop I created, I use short (100ms) delays. I do that because it is easy to follow. In real life though it is better to avoid delays.

Full code download here. Beware. The sensor and ledPin are slightly different in that program.

Part 1 General – DeepSleep
Part 2 Http requests – DeepSleep
Part 3 MQTT publish – DeepSleep
Part 4 MQTT subscribe – DeepSleep
Part 5 ESP-NOW -DeepSleep

Very Deep Sleep and energy saving on ESP8266 – Part 3: MQTT

In part 1 and 2 of this series, I sketched how to be very energy efficient when using a battery (part 1) and how to periodically gather sensor data and send that to a server through http (part 2).

In this part 3 I will show how to use an energy thrifty ESP8266 sketch to send sensor data via MQTT.

Again I am using the sketch from part 1, that has a section for ‘read data’ or ‘do stuff’  and a section for ‘send data’ and  I just insert the necessary code.

All in all it is quite straight forward. This time I will not be using a BME280 sensor, but that good old DHT11.
As usual, you have to insert your own wifi credentials, and in this case also the ip number and port of your MQTT broker.

I laced the sketch with print statement that should help you in case of problems, but once you have the sketch up and running you can remove those.

There is a possibility for a bit more enerdy saving:
I use the following 2 statements to read and send the sensor data:

client.publish("home/sleep/stat/temp",String(dht.readTemperature()).c_str(),false);
client.publish("sleep/sleep/stat/humid",String(dht.readHumidity()).c_str(),false);

However, the DHT11 isn’t a really fast sensor and the read is while we are connected to WiFi. You could probably shave off a bit of connection time (and thus current) by reading the sensors in the ‘do stuff’ section, store them each into a global variable and use those variables in your MQTT publish.
Do that as follows:

//global
float t;
float h;

//do stuff
t=dht.readTemperature();
h=dht.readHumidity();

//when connected
client.publish("home/sleep/stat/temp",String(t).c_str(),false); client.publish("sleep/sleep/stat/humid",String(h).c_str(),false);

This would also allow you to check for false readings with

if(isnan(h)||isnan(t));

and take corrective action. But that is not really the subject of this HowTo. Don’t forget a 5.1k pull-up resistor. As the DHT11 draws about 0.5mA, you could decide to feed it from one of the gpio pins and just switch it on when needed. (0.5mA comes to 12mAh over a day). However, also take into account that the DHT11 may need a bit of time to get ready.

Also, this sketch only publishes MQTT messages, it does not subscribe to any messages. DeepSleep and receiving subscribed MQTT messages comes with its own set of problems, but it is not impossible. Perhaps that I will write about that in the future.

You will find the link to this program here.

Part 1 -DeepSleep General
Part 2 -DeepSleep HTTP publishing
Part 3 -DeepSleep MQTT Publishing
Part 4 -DeepSleep MQTT Subscribing
Part 5 -DeepSleep ESP-NOW

Very DeepSleep and energy saving on ESP8266 – Part 2: Sending data with HTTP

In an earlier post,  I showed how to  try and do some major energy saving in case you are using a battery. I gave a working framework sketch, that did all but actually read data or send data as it just focussed on the energy saving.

Though it isn’t hard to add that to the program, as I indicated where you could add a ‘read sensor’ and ‘senddata’ procedure, I realize that that may still cause some obstacles for a beginner, so I will show how to add some code to send the data somewhere.

Though MQTT is a popular way to send data, in this example I have chosen to send data to a MySQL database (in fact I am using MariaDB, but that works the same).

As there is no reason to reinvent the wheel, for setting up the database and the needed  php files, I refer to the randomnerdstutorial website that has 2 excellent tutorials about this. We will use their server-side code (database and php files) to send the data to.

We will use the BME280 to gather the data.

Since the BME280 is used as I2C device, we need to inlude the Wire library. As we will use the Adafruit library to read the data, we will actually need two  more libraries, that we add in the global section of the program. We will also declare the object:

#include <Wire.h>
#include <Adafruit_Sensor.h>
#include <Adafruit_BME280.h> //defaults to 0x77, change that if yr BME is 0x76
Adafruit_BME280 bme;

In the Setup() section, we have to initialize the library.  The library defaults to the BME having an I2C address of 0x76, but if you happen to have a 0x77 module, here is where you can change the default.
We then do am optional check to see if the BME280 is detected and in principle you are good to go. However, in my previous article I mentioned you could put the BME280 to sleep in between readings and that is what we will do. Therefore for now I only added a jump to a procedure that i call ‘BMEsetup’. We will fill it in later

Wire.begin();
//bme.begin() will return True if the sensor was found, and False if not. If you get a False value back, check your wiring!
status = bme.begin(); //bme.begin(address) 0x76 or 0x77
if (!status) {
Serial.println("no BME detected");
delay(1);
}
BMEsetup(); // set weathermonitormode

So now we have to do 2 things: we have to read the sensor  and send those in an HTTP request.

As we are using Forced Mode we have to wake the sensor and tell it it has to take a new measurement:

bme.takeForcedMeasurement();

We can read the sensor and  build  our HTTP request string in one go like so:

// Prepare your HTTP POST request data

httpRequestData = "api_key=" + apiKeyValue + "&sensor=" + sensorName
+ "&location=" + sensorLocation + "&value1=" + String(bme.readTemperature())
+ "&value2=" + String(bme.readPressure() / 100.0F) + "&value3=" + String(bme.readHumidity())+ "";

Sadly, the Adafruit library is extremely inefficient in reading the data. The datasheet advises a ‘burst read’ of the data, both for speed and to prevent mix-up of data. The adafruit library has chosen to do separate register readings, but to make matters worse, it precedes the pressure and humidity readings each with a temperature reading first, which is then discarded. So 3 measurements become 5 which adds at least 4 ms to the total. As we are reading the temperature first in our httprequest string, we could opt to remove the extra reads from the Adafruit library. The Sparkfun library does not have these extra reads.

The total conversion time of the 3 measurements comes to 13msec and it is better to do that while the radio is still off, especially when the library adds anothe 4 msecs

As I plan to send the http request in a seperate procedure (to keep it all clear and transparent), we have to define the String variable httpRequestData as a global variable (by adding it in the global section of the program), like so:

String httpRequestData;

Then it is time to Switch the WiFi on like described before and make our http request.

void sql() {
//Check WiFi connection status
if (WiFi.status() == WL_CONNECTED) {
HTTPClient http;

// Your Domain name with URL path or IP address with path
http.begin(serverName);// deprecated.

// Specify content-type header
http.addHeader("Content-Type", "application/x-www-form-urlencoded");

// Send the request and collect the response
int httpResponseCode = http.POST(httpRequestData);

if (httpResponseCode > 0) {
Serial.print("HTTP Response code: ");
Serial.println(httpResponseCode);
}
else {
Serial.print("Error code: ");
Serial.println(httpResponseCode);
}
// Free resources
http.end();
}
else {
Serial.println("WiFi Disconnected");
}
}

The http.begin(serverName); command, is or will be deprecated in near future. I understand the proper command then will be: http.begin(client,serverName);. Current code is working.

Now we only have to define the BMEsetup routine that we called earlier. Thats an easy one:

// weather monitoring
void BMEsetup() {
Serial.println("-- Weather Station Scenario --");
Serial.println("forced mode, 1x temperature / 1x humidity / 1x pressure oversampling,");
Serial.println("filter off");
bme.setSampling(Adafruit_BME280::MODE_FORCED,
Adafruit_BME280::SAMPLING_X1, // temperature
Adafruit_BME280::SAMPLING_X1, // pressure
Adafruit_BME280::SAMPLING_X1, // humidity
Adafruit_BME280::FILTER_OFF );
}

Download the entire file here.  After you got it working feel free to delete the print statements.

A word on voltage monitoring
In my previous article I mentioned that voltage monitoring -a popular thing to do when using a battery- needs a voltage divider that can be a considerable, constant drain on on the battery.
If you are using a LiPobattery that can be as high as 4.2Volts, a 320k over 1ook voltage divider is a decent choice, but still adds to a discharge of the batteries. From that aspect, measuring the internal Vcc is an interesting alternative.
Sure, if you use a stabiliser to get the battery voltage down to 3.3 Volt, initially you have no info on the battery voltage, but you will know when it gets critical.
Presume you have an HT7833 that has a voltage drop og 360 mV. Suppose the output is a rock solid 3.3Volt, then the only thing you know is that your battery is still OK, i.e >3.63 Volt. The moment your Vcc drops below 3.3Volt you know yr battery is dropping below its nominal 3.7 Volt, while there still is plenty of juice to feed your ESP.
If you want to monitor the internal Vcc, then just add.

ADC_MODE(ADC_VCC);

to the declaration section and read the voltage with

ESP.getVcc()/1023.0F

Adding fields
Should you want to add a field, e.g. for the battery voltage, then there are several things to do:

    1. add  String(ESP.getVcc()/1023.0F) to the httpRequest string
    2. add a field to the database. you can do that with
      ALTER TABLE yourtable ADD newfieldname VARCHAR() after fieldname

      but it is better to use your own specific database management system. (I use webmin)

    3. Adapt the post-esp-data.php file to collect and store data, to cater for an extra field. Go ahead, try, it is simple
    4. Do the same for the esp_data.php file

Board
The best board to use would be an ESP12F:

In a follow up article I will show how to implement MQTT with this deep sleep example

Part 1 -DeepSleep General
Part 2 -DeepSleep HTTP publishing
Part 3 -DeepSleep MQTT Publishing
Part 4 -DeepSleep MQTT Subscribing
Part 5 -Deepsleep ESP-NOW

Very DeepSleep and energy saving on ESP8266 – Part 1: Basics

Intro: For the seasoned ESP user I might be over explaining things here, but apparently some people struggle with basic things around deepsleep, hence my perhaps somewhat overly long explanation.

For battery fed projects, low energy consumption is a must.
De ESP8266 can help with that, using DeepSleep.

Earlier I published a rather simple DeepSleep program, combined with MQTT, but from an energy conserving point of view  there are more things in setting up DeepSleep that can make a difference. There are also couple of other things to take into consideration.

The ideas here are not new. I have gotten some inspiration from Erik Bakke’s OppoverBakke site, even though there was a mistake in his code snippets.

I will just describe what I did to bring my ESP8266 to minimal energy consumption.

1. Pick the proper ESP8266 board.
You want your ESP board as lean as possible. No other power hungry other components such as FTDI chip or LEDs. This basically excludes most modules such as Wemos D1 mini or NodeMCU and only leaves the bare chips such as ESP-03, ESP-04 and ESP12 on a carrier board. The ESP12 is the easiest though as the ESP-03 and ESP-04 for instance do not have the GPIO16 or RST pin broken out to a side connector, but to a pad on the PCB. The ESP M2 and ESP M3 can be used too as they have gpio16 broken out
The ESP8266-01 would be perfect after you remove the LED, but it does not have the DO/GPIO16 pin broken out. If you have young eyes and a steady hand you can try to solder a wire on the GPIO16 pin.

2. Pick the right voltage regulator.
If you are using 2×1.5V AA cells (unlikely) you may get by without a regulator, but if for instance you are using 3×1.2V NiCd-s or a 3.7 Lipo (that can go up as high as 4.2Volt), you are going to need a regulator. You dont want a regulator that needs a big input voltage in order to maintain 3.3Volt, so you will need a Low drop regulator, a so called ‘LDO’
Possible candidates are:

Type Quiescent current Drop Voltage Max Input Voltage Max Output Package
Torex XC6206 1uA ‎ 160mV@100mA 6Volt 200mA SOT23-3, SOT89,USP-6B
Analog Devices LTC3525-3.3 7uA ‎ Step up converter ‎ 6Volt ‎ 60mA at 3.3V from a 1V Input, or 140mA at 3.3V from a 1.8V Input‎
Holtek HT7333 4uA 90mV@40mA 12V 250mA SOT89,TO92
Holtek HT7833 4uA 360mV@500mA 8.5V 500mA SOT89,TO92
ME6211 40uA 100mV@100mA 6.5V 300-500mA SOT23, SOT89
SPX3819M5 90uA 340mV@full load 16V 800mA SOT23-5, SOIC8, DFN8
Microchip MCP1700 1.6uA 178 mV@ 250 mA 6V 250mA SOT23, SOT89, TO92
Microchip MCP1825 120uA 210mV@ 500 mA 6V 500mA SOT23, SOT89, TO92
Microchip MCP1826 0.1-220uA 250mV@ 1000 mA 6.5V 1000mA SOT23, SOT89, TO92
LT-1763 30uA 300mV 20V 500mA S8
TPS783xx 500nA 130-175mV 6V 150mA SOT5
TLF80511TFV33 38uA 100mV@100mA 45V 400mA PG-TO252-3
MCP1825S33 0.1uA 210mV@500mA 6V 500mA SOT223-5, DDPAK-5. TO220-5

The problem here is that many of the LDO’s that have a very low quiescent current, also have an output current that is on the edge of what the ESP8266 needs at startup.

The MCP1700 as well as the HT7333 are often advised,but they are really at the verge of what an ESP8266 needs in current using WiFi. if the 90mV drop of the HT7333 are important for you then consider adding a beefy capacitor.

In all honesty I would advise AGAINST using any regulator giving less than 300mA.

Apparently it is possible to use two HT7333 chips in parallel. The HT7833 seems a pretty good choice. It typically needs a 1uF elco on the input and a 2.2uF elco on the output to be stable. A higher value is ofcourse a good idea.

The ME6211 is used on the Wemos D1 mini board (which does not mean it is the best choice for low-drop/low Iq). Same goes for the SPX3819M5 on the Lolin NodeMCU.

3. Pick the right internet connection
Often we pick a DHCP connection by default. A DHCP connection usually  takes longer to establish than a static IP connection. It is therefore best to chose for the latter. With the ESP it is simply a matter of providing the following details (mind you, the IPnrs are just an example)

//We will use static ip
IPAddress ip(192, 168, 1, 35);// 
IPAddress dns(192.168.1.1);
IPAddress gateway(192, 168, 1, 1); //
IPAddress subnet(255, 255, 255, 0); // this one is pretty standard

and then make the connection with

WiFi.config( ip, dns, gateway, subnet );
WiFi.begin( WLAN_SSID, WLAN_PASSWD );

That is not the only thing we can do making the connection. We can try circumvent some oddities that the ESP8266 shows in connecting to the WiFi network:

the ESP8266 persists the network connection information to flash, and then reads it back when it next starts the WiFi function. It does this every time, and it takes at least 1.2 seconds (source Erik Bakke).

The chip does this even when you pass connection information to WiFi.begin(), like:

WiFi.begin( WLAN_SSID, WLAN_PASSWD );

This will actually load the connection information from flash, ignore it and use the values you specify instead, connect to the WiFi and then finally write your values back to flash.

We can disable that with the command WiFi.persistent( false )

There is more we can do to save time though. The Wifi.begin(SSID,PASSWORD) command does a scan for the proper network amongst the ones advertised. It is possible to supply a WiFi channel number and a BSSID to the WiFi.begin() command that takes away the need for a scan.
The ESP does not know the channel number or BSSID, so we need to read that info from the first connection, store it, and submit it at the next connection.
For that we need to replace the Wifi.begin(); statement with a piece of code that retrieves and manages the necessary information.
Fortunately there is such code available, and as I saw it in various places, I would not know  who to credit for it.
We begin with defining a structure:

A structure aka. struct is a way to group variables together, possibly of different types. One can have several instances of a declared structure. The variables within a structure are called members.

We define the following structure:

struct {
  uint32_t crc32;   // 4 bytes
  uint8_t channel;  // 1 byte,   5 in total
  uint8_t ap_mac[6];// 6 bytes, 11 in total
  uint8_t padding;  // 1 byte,  12 in total
} rtcData;

We use a CRC checksum to see if the data we use perhaps got corrupted. We use 1 bte for the channel and 6 bytes for the Accespoint information.
We add one superfluous byte to come to a multiple of 4. (here is more about storing data in rtc memory).

Then on connecting we make a few checks:

        1. is the CRC data correct? If not, make a normal connection.
        2. if after 100 tries it is not working, we reset the WiFi and go make a normal connection
        3. If  after 600 tries still no connection, we put the ESP8266 to sleep and will try later again.

We do need a routine to do the CRC-check, but that’s easily done.
Once we made the WiFi connection, we can connect to where we need to go: an MQTT broker or make an HTTP request for instance.

4. Make sure you do not connect to WiFi before you have to.
Making the connection at the right moment is important though. You do not want to waste energy on your 2.4 GHz signal when you are still reading sensors. As it is, the ESP8266   already has its radio on by default.
So the first thing we need to do upon wake up, is to switch off the radio.
We do that like this:

void setup() {   // disable WiFi, coming from DeepSleep, as we do not need it right away
  WiFi.mode( WIFI_OFF );
  WiFi.forceSleepBegin();
  delay( 1 );

Only once we have done that, we let the program do what it must, like reading sensors, and only then do we start thinking about making the  WiFi connection. Ofcourse we first need to switch the modem/radio on and we do that with:

//Switch Radio back On
WiFi.forceSleepWake();
delay( 1 );

That brings us almost to the end of what we need to do, software wise:
We Switch off the radio, read the sensors, switch on the radio, try make a quick connection and if necessary a regular connection, we then connected to where we want to go (Thingspeak,  MQTTbroker, whatever)and then it is finally time to put the ESP8266 into DeepSleep.

5.Putting the ESP8266 into deepsleep
The simplest form of a DeepSleep program is to do the stuff you need to do  (read yr sensors,make connections) and then call:
ESP.deepSleep(SLEEPTIME)
There is however more that we can do. remember that I said that on wake up the radio is on by default? Well we can give the ESP8266 a wake up instruction so it knows what to do when waking up. We can already tell the ESP8266 that it should NOT switch on the radio by default. We do this with:

ESP.deepSleep(SLEEPTIME, WAKE_RF_DISABLED);

I know that in an earlier step we started with switching the radio off and strictly speaking that step would no longer be necessary once we use the wake up instruction, but I left it in anyway, just to make sure/for illustration. You could opt to leave it out though.
Truthfully there is a bit more superfluous code. e.g. it is not really necessary to switch off the WiFi immediately before DeepSleep.

Only one thing remains now: How long will we put the ESP8266 to sleep?

That ofcourse is a very personal decision, but lets see how long we CAN put the ESP to sleep.

The max deepsleep USED to be max 71 minutes. That was simply because the system_deep_sleep parameter was defined as an unsigned 32 bit integer. The max value of a 32bit unsigned integer is 0xFFFFFFFF, that is 71 min in usecs.
Since the 2.4.1 core, it is a 64 byte unsigned integer. That comes to 18446744073709551615 us or 5,124,095,576 hrs or about half a million year. Nobody wants to wait that long, so expressif seem to have capped that to about 3.5 hrs

This capped number is defined in the ESP.deepSleep(Max) parameter. So when I defined my deepsleep call as ESP.deepSleep(ESP.deepSleepMax(),WAKE_RF_DISABLED );, my ESP went to sleep for 3hrs and 9 min. I noticed though that this cycle tended to get shorter over time. Also if you define a specific period, e.g. 1 hour, with 3.6e9 (=3.6×109) then you will find that that might not be exactly an hour. in my case it was about 58 min.

Testing on a Wemos D1 mini. Connect RST pin with a jumper tp pin D0, as shown here

You will find a DeepSleep program as described above, here. The only thing you need to add other than your web credentials is some code to read your sensors and some code to send your data to where you want to store it (e.g. Thingspeak or yr own webserver, or a broker). I will be adding such code in several follow up articles.
Upload the code and AFTER your upload, connect D0/gpio16 to the RST pin.

6. Think about your sensors
Your sensors use power as well, even when your ESP8266 is sleeping. Perhaps there is a sensor that does the same as another sensor, but uses less power. Consider feeding yr sensors from a gpio pin that you switch LOW when the sensor is not used. Keep in mind that some sensors need a warm up or settling time.  If you do that, ALWAYS make sure your sensor does not draw more than an ESP8266 pin can deliver (12mA), but chances are that if it does, it isn’t one that you should feed from a battery anyway. If you really have to or want to, you can opt for a FET to switch on the sensor. A very popular ‘sensor’ in battery fed projects is measuring the battery voltage. As the ADC of the ESP8266 only goes up to 1 Volt, some form of resistor voltage divider is necessary. This means a constant drain on the battery, so it is best to chose high values for the divider. If you use a 420k divider, you would be constantly draining 10uA on a full battery. That may not seem much, but it is also what your entire ESP8266 uses in deepsleep. If you are not using a power regulator, for instance when you are using 2×1.5Volt batteries, then it is better to use the internal measurement of the Vcc. Do that with:

ADC_MODE(ADC_VCC);
float vccVolt = ESP.getVcc()/1024.0F;

Another possibility is to switch off the voltage divider with a p-FET.The idea is to only put current to the voltage divider when it is needed. We can do that with a circuit like this:
batterijmeten

Through a “HIGH” on the input of the circuit, the BC547 will conduct and pull the gate of the p-FET down. The P-FET will open and allow  voltage to be on the voltage divider. After the measurement, the input should be pulled “LOW” which will block any current to go through the voltage divider. As it is, the  (3.3-0.6)/1000=2.4mA, ONLY when the pin is pulled HIGH. It is possible to increase the  base resistor: the current going through the collector will be roughly 3.3/10.000=33uA. with an hFE of roughly 100, the current through the base would only need to be 0.33uA, so most likely a 68k base resistor would still be OK. The FET needs to be a type with a low RDSon and a Vgs of around -2-3 Volt.

According to some older expressif documentation the satus of the gpio pins is maintained in DeepSleep but can only drive 2uA. It is a bit unclear though in the updated version, saying the state of the pins on DeepSleep is no longer defined (table 1-1), though it seems to then contradict itself (page 5/9).

Some sensors –like the BME280– can be programmed to go to sleep in between measurements. For the BME280 this is the ‘Forced Mode’ if you then have a 1/min reading (Bosch calls this the ‘weather monitoring state’) the power consumption is 0.16uA. Using forced mode is also a good way to prevent/limit internal warming up of the chip, which would give skewed readings.

7. Do you need to send your values?
Rather than sending every measurement when made, you could opt to store results in RTC/SPIFFS memory and only send them say once a day,  or you could decide that if a new measurement result is say within 5% of the previous reading, there is no need to send it. If you are weary of RAM wear, you could add some FRAM, e.g. the MB85RS64V (8k, Operating current 1.5 mA. Standby current 10 μA) or MB85RC256V (32K, Operating current 200μA. Standby current 27uA) (library)

8. Choose your batteries wisely
Once you get to uA levels, self discharge of the batteries becomes an important competing factor.
Nick Gammon states the following self discharge for a number of batteries:

Type Capacity mAH Discharge %/month Self discharge (uA)
CR1212 (3V) 18 1 0.250
CR1620 (3V) 68 1 0.950
CR2032 (3V) 210 1 3
NiCD AAA (1.2V) 350 20 98
NiMH AAA (1.2V) 900 30 375
NiCd AA (1.2V) 1000 20 270
Alkaline AAA (1.5V) 1250 2 35
NiMH AA (1.2V) 2400 30 1000
Alkaline AA (1.5V) 2890 2 80
Li-Ion (3.7V) 4400 10 600

Connecting D0/GPIO16 to RST
In order for the wake up pulse to work, D0 needs to be connected to RST. The drawback of that is that you need to remove that link when you want to reflash the ESP8266. some people advise connecting the pins via a resistor. That has mixed results though. A better way is to use a Skottky diode -e.g a 1N5819– with the cathode to pin gpio16/D0 and the anode to the RST pin.

In a follow up article, I will publish some code that uses this deepsleep framework to read a sensor and send it to a database.

Part 1 -DeepSleep General
Part 2 -DeepSleep HTTP publishing
Part 3 -DeepSleep MQTT Publishing
Part 4 -DeepSleep MQTT Subscribing
Part 5 -Deepsleep ESP-NOW

Using Telegram with ESP8266 or ESP32

Telegram is a ‘Whatsapp’ like app for mobile phones to exchange messages.
An advantage over Whatsapp or Viber is that it also allows you to communicate with your (micro)computer.
That means your phone can receive messages sent from your ESP8266 or ESP32, but also that your phone can be used to control your ESP8266 or ESP32.

In order to do so you need to have the telegram app installed, create your own bot to handle the traffic, get an API_key and the chat_id for your bot

Install Telegram
Visit Telegram official website and download the official application for your smartphone, or get it from the playstore

Create your Bot
Create your bot by using a bot called “BotFather”. To do this, add BotFather to your contacts or visit telegram.me/botfather and follow the instructions to create your own bot.

Get your API
When your bot is created, BotFather gives you the HTTP API token which follows a pattern like 123456789:AABBCCDD_abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz. You need this token to send messages.

Get your chat_id
You will need this ID to send messages, you do not need it to receive messages. Getting this ID is not straightforward and most of the methods i have seen on the internet do not work (anymore).
The only ones I found working is to the IDBot (and follow the instructions). and the get_id_bot. The latter can be a bit slow though. (I will mention a 3rd option further down)

Getting your chat ID with IDBot

Getting your chat ID with get_id bot

The id is an integer and it follows a pattern like 123456789

Now it is time to test your bot.
You can do that with cURL

curl --data chat_id="892915001" --data "text=Hello World" "https://api.telegram.org/bot977142506:AAGYWypUbMN8BCthML-tFM25M403r2yCsFj/sendMessage

from your commandline prompt

or with a GET URL in a browser like this:

https://api.telegram.org/bot977142506:AAGYWypUbMN8BCthML-tFM25M403r2yCsFj/sendMessage?chat_id=892915001&text=Hello-World

There is an other element that can be added at the end and that is &parse_mode=, but for normal operations we can leave that out or make it “&parse_mode=HTML”.  A bit more on this further down

Using GET
So now we have our communication with Telegram working, we can go do something useful with it.
The fact that the API can be reached with a GET message opens up possibilities for an ESP8266, ESP32, Raspberry Pi or other controller that is connected to internet.

You would do that with

botclient.print(String("GET ") + url + " HTTP/1.1\r\n" +
"Host: " + host + "\r\n" +
"User-Agent: BuildFailureDetectorESP8266\r\n" +
"Connection: close\r\n\r\n");

in which

const char* host = "api.telegram.org"

and the
String url is the sum of the strings and variables you want to send

In your declaration section you would be stating:

WiFiClientSecure botclient;

The reason I am not putting a complete and ready “Telegram via GET” program here is because there is actually a pretty decent library program available, so if you insist on using your own GET statements rather than a library, I presume you do that to make very lean code in which case I presume you are versed enough in coding to build your own routine with the help of the above info.
If you use a GET URL to connect your ESP to Telegram and you are sure your code is correct, you may have a secure connection problem. Read On

Using a library
There are several libraries for Telegram available and you probably already find them in your library manager. The “UniversalTelegramBot” is a pretty decent one and the examples should get you up and running fast, even if from first glance it is not always clear what they do 🙂 .
So, install the library via library manager and lets have a look at the “PhotoFromURL”example.

When you fill in your WiFi credentials and Telegram API, you may wonder “where the heck goes my chat_id”.
Well, remember earlier I said you only needed the chat_id when you wanted to send something from yr micro to your phone? Well, that’s the case right here.
“Yes, but this program IS supposed to send me something and I clearly see a variable called chat_id, so where do I put mine” I hear you say.
Well this program will send you a picture ONLY when you tell it to do that and then the program will just read your chat_id from the incoming message and use that. This is also the 3rd method of finding your client ID

So here is  what you do to use that example: After you upload it to your ESP8266, go to your Telegram app on your phone. select the bot you just created to send a message to and message /start.

After a few moments the bot responds with an overview of the commands you can give (only one in this case). Tap on that command to execute it.

It is not working
If nothing happens, it is time to open the serial monitor.
You should see the IP number being printed. Make sure you type the correct command in your Telegram app and make sure you are sending it to the proper bot.

If you don’t see the ‘got response’ message appearing and you are sure you have inserted the right API, then apparently something else is keeping the program from opening a socket to the bot.

Could it be that you are still using the 2.5.0 ESP8266 core? There are plenty good reasons to use that core, but apparently it has a problem with secure connections. But not all is lost. Here is what you do:

Go to setup() and add

client.setInsecure();

and then compile and upload the file again.

Beware! In this example the WiFiSecure() client IS called client. That maybe different in other examples (in the Bulkmessages example it is called ‘secured_client’. Change your setInsecure statement accordingly.

Controlling your ESP8266/ESP32 via Telegram
It is possible to control your ESP via your Telegram App. In fact, that is what the previous example was already doing: we  instructed it to send a photo.

The FlashLed example shows very clear how to control your ESP. If for testing you want to use the inbuild led from the Wemos, the ledPin should be ‘2’, the ledon routine should make the pin LOW and the ledoff routine should make the pin HIGH.

You could combine functions like so:

/*******************************************************************
 *  How to use basic functiond of a Telegrambot
 *  A completely changed example based on a sketch from  
 *      Vadim Sinitski
 *******************************************************************/
#include <ESP8266WiFi.h>
#include <WiFiClientSecure.h>
#include <UniversalTelegramBot.h>

// Initialize Wifi connection to the router
char ssid[] = "NETGEAR1";     // your network SSID (name)
char password[] = "SECRET"; // your network key

// Initialize Telegram BOT
#define BOTtoken "XXXXXXXXX:YYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY"  // your Bot Token (Get from Botfather)

WiFiClientSecure client;
UniversalTelegramBot bot(BOTtoken, client);

int Bot_mtbs = 1000; //mean time between scan messages
long Bot_lasttime;   //last time messages' scan has been done
bool Start = false;

const int ledPin = 2;
int ledStatus = 0;

String test_photo_url = "https://img.srgcdn.com/e/w:750/cjh2NWp4S0FiNWxJQVNsQ3JUU28uanBn.jpg"; // can insert any picture URL

void handleNewMessages(int numNewMessages) {
  Serial.println("handleNewMessages");
  Serial.println(String(numNewMessages));


  for (int i = 0; i < numNewMessages; i++) {
    String chat_id = String(bot.messages[i].chat_id);
    String text = bot.messages[i].text;

    String from_name = bot.messages[i].from_name;
    if (from_name == "") from_name = "Guest";

    if (text == "/get_photo") {
      bot.sendPhoto(chat_id, test_photo_url, "Who");
    }

    //-------------
    //add more commands here
    //-------------
    
    if (text == "/ledon") {
      digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
      ledStatus = 1;
      bot.sendMessage(chat_id, "Led is ON", "");
    }

    if (text == "/ledoff") {
      ledStatus = 0;
      digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);    // turn the LED off (LOW is the voltage level)
      bot.sendMessage(chat_id, "Led is OFF", "");
    }

    if (text == "/status") {
      if (ledStatus) {
        bot.sendMessage(chat_id, "Led is ON", "");
      } else {
        bot.sendMessage(chat_id, "Led is OFF", "");
      }
    }
    

    if (text == "/start") {
      String welcome = "Welcome to Telegram Bot, " + from_name + ".\n";
      welcome += "This will show several properies.\n\n";
      welcome += "/get_photo : getting photo\n";
      welcome += "/ledon : to switch the Led ON\n";
      welcome += "/ledoff : to switch the Led OFF\n";
      welcome += "/status : Returns current status of LED\n";


      bot.sendMessage(chat_id, welcome, "");
    }
  }
}

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);

  // Set WiFi to station mode and disconnect from an AP if it was Previously connected
  WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA);
  WiFi.disconnect();
  delay(100);

  // attempt to connect to Wifi network:
  Serial.print("Connecting Wifi: ");
  Serial.println(ssid);
  WiFi.begin(ssid, password);

  while (WiFi.status() != WL_CONNECTED) {
    Serial.print(".");
    delay(500);
  }

  Serial.println("");
  Serial.println("WiFi connected");
  Serial.print("IP address: ");
  Serial.println(WiFi.localIP());
  client.setInsecure(); // if yr core cannot handle secure connections

  pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // initialize digital ledPin as an output.
  delay(10);
  digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // initialize pin as off

}

void loop() {
  if (millis() > Bot_lasttime + Bot_mtbs)  {
    int numNewMessages = bot.getUpdates(bot.last_message_received + 1);

    while (numNewMessages) {
      Serial.println("got response");
      handleNewMessages(numNewMessages);
      numNewMessages = bot.getUpdates(bot.last_message_received + 1);
    }

    Bot_lasttime = millis();
  }
}

Or download here.

I just want to have my ESP send notifications
Well in fact the previous examples kinda did that, but if you really just want to have notifications sent to your phone from your ESP, then the only command you will need from the library is

bot.sendMessage(chat_id, "My message", "");

Provided of course you called your library object ‘bot’. Those empty quotes at the end are there for the parse_mode (read on).
Instead of “my message” you can also insert a String variable in which you add text and variables and you can even use simple HTML coding in that string.  In that case the command needs to be:

bot.sendMessage(chat_id, messagestring, "HTML");

your messagestring could for instance be:

String messagestring="The temperature is  <b>"+String(tempreading+ "</b>Celsius";

more about the API here!