Single channel Triac AC switch

smallTriacSwitch .

In order to switch some floodlights by my Arduino, the small switch circuits I built around a 39mf22 were just not man enough to handle the current needed, so I decided to build a switch with discrete components around a TRIAC. Now these circuits are very easy and come a dime a dozen on the internet: just google for TIC206 or MOC3041 and you have lots of choice. The reason I make an instructable for such a simple circuit is to also provide a print design for those people to lazy or unable to make a design themselves🙂

But let me start with a disclaimer/warning: This circuit is connected to a mains voltage that can kill you. If you do not know what you are doing then do not build this circuit.. Do not touch it when it is connected to the mains. The metal plate of the Triac is connected to it’s Terminal 2 and thus to the mains voltage. When in use, do not touch that plate to feel how warm it gets. Put this circuit in a proper container.

Materials List
Triac TIC206  €1.20
MOC3041 €0.65
DIL 6 IC foot €0.15
LED €0.15
Resistor 220 Ohm 1/4 Watt €0.10
Resistor 470 Ohm 1/4 Watt €0.10
Connector €0.20
Piece of scrap PCB 23×43 mm
That is a total of €2.55

The links are just there to illustrate what I mean and to give a price indication. I have no links to that webshop other than that i use it and am satisfied with it.
It is also possible to use the considerably cheaper BT136-600, that like the TIC206 can deliver 4Amps, but it’s gate current is a hefty 35-70mA as compared to the TIC206’s 5mA. If a BT136 is used, the 470Ohm resistor may need to be a bit smaller (150 Ohm)

additionally you may need:
capacitor 10-100nF 400V
resistor 39-100 Ohm
resistor 330 Ohm
The PCB is here.
and mirorred here.

The circuit
The main components in this circuit are the MOC3041 optocoupler and the TIC206 TRIAC (M or D version). I have chosen for a MOC3041 because it has a zero crossover circuit in the chip, ensuring smooth switching. The TIC 206  is a triac that has a relatively sensitive gate.
The output from an Arduino or other uP  is led to the MOC3041 via a 22o Ohm resistor and an LED. This way one can see for sure if there is current flowing through the optocoupler. 
The gate of the thyristor is fed  from a 470 Ohm resistor that connects through the MOC3041 optocoupler
On the printed circuit board there is room for a 330 Ohm resistor (labelled with a ‘*’). If one uses the TIC206 TRiac this resistor is not necessary. Some other thyristors however may need that resistor in order to start.
As I am switching a lamp, I have no use for a snubber circuit (formed by the 100R resistor and C1). However, if you switch inductive loads you will need one. The values of the resistor and capacitor may vary depending on your situation but a proper way to start would be a 100 Ohm resistor and a 100nF capacitor. The PCB offers holes at various distances, suitable for different sizes of capacitors.


Download the PCB design(s) above and use your favorite method to etch your PCB. With regard to the design: the pcb picture in this ibble is seen from the component side: The copper traces thus are actually seen as if you are looking through the board. That is why the writing is in reverse. This design is suitable for a direct toner transfer
If you use the mirrorred design, the writing  is in fact not mirrorred. 
I have used the non mirrorred design for a direct toner transfer (printing it on glossy paper and ironing it on a copperplate)  and that works well. Etching in Hydrochloric acid and Hydroyperoxide.

There is only a two pole connector on this PCB that can be thought of as a switch, interrupting the ‘Live’ line of a connection, just like a regular switch. The figure shows the proper way to connect it according to EU codes: Blue is neutral, brown is live black is switched and yellow green is earth. Outside the EU there are different colour codes.




here. Mirrored here.

E. ten Winkel

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